The “Send” Station

Welcome to the Send Station

Image result for climbing send

Take a look at these informative resources. They might just help you send your next project!

Basics

Hips in, arms straight

Use your legs – especially your big toe

You’ll climb great(ly)

Vocab and Techniques

Bicycle Using the feet to apply simultaneous and opposing pressure on features of a climb—one foot pushing down and the other pulling up—in order to achieve balance and static control while climbing.

Drop Knee – involves heavily weighting the outside of one foot—with the opposing foot stemmed against another hold—in order to generate body tension. This position entails swiveling the corresponding hip towards the wall and torquing the knee downwards

Send – when you finish a climb without falling or touching any other holds

Flash – when you finish a climb on your first try

Redpoint – when you finish a climb on any try other than your first try (only used with roped climbing though)

Beta – the route you take and moves you make to get up a climb (please don’t scream this at people as or after they climb, ask them if they want help first)

Problem – what we call boulders; they’re boulder problems

Route – what we call top ropes, they’re top rope routes

Flag – when you press your leg tight against the wall instead of putting it on a foothold

Smear – pressing your foot against the wall to get traction instead of using a foothold

Heel hook – putting your heel onto or around a rock feature and pulling

Toe hook – sticking your toe in a hold and using that to keep your body tension 

Crux – the toughest move or sequence of moves on a climb

Dyno – short for dynamic move, when you jump from one hold to another and both feet come off

Free climbing – climbing with your hands and feet on the rock instead of using gear to get up

Free soloing – climbing long routes without any rope (please don’t do this, save it for Alex Honnold)

Jug – the big holds that are incredible, deep, and easy to hold onto

Crimp – the tiny holds that make your fingers hurt

Pinch – holds that you have to pinch to hold onto

Sloper – usually big, flat holds that tend to rely on skin friction and an open-hand grip

Mantel – a move in which downward pressure is applied with the hands to a ledge, lifting the body high enough to get the feet on the same ledge

Pumped – to be weakened or in pain (usually in the forearms) from a hard move or climb 

Slab –  a wall that is angled slightly above 90 degrees, usually climbs on these walls are more balance based

Overhang – a wall that is angled below 90 degrees, usually climbs on these walls are more power based

Arête – the outside corner or edge of the wall 

Barn door – to swing sideways out from the rock due to being off balance

Crag – a small cliff, or term for a climbing area

Dihedral – two planes of a rock face that intersect, an inside corner in which a climber can use counter pressure on each side to climb it

Edging – Standing on small ledges or crystals with the edges of climbing shoes rather than the soles

Body Position and Directional Loading

General Links

REI Rock Climbing Glossary 

A to Z of climbing

Climbing.com’s Skill articles 

Rock and Ice’s Climbing Technique article 

Climbing Techniques.org

Rapidly Improving Climber Mentality

Adjusting the mental aspect of your climbing is one of the most important steps in improvement. Doing so will allow you to improve other skills quickly and to break through mental barriers.

Mental Training for Climbers

Footwork