Welcome to the Send Station
Take a look at these informative resources. They might just help you send your next project!
Basics
Hips in, arms straight
Use your legs – especially your big toe
You’ll climb great(ly)
Vocab and Techniques
Bicycle – Using the feet to apply simultaneous and opposing pressure on features of a climb—one foot pushing down and the other pulling up—in order to achieve balance and static control while climbing.
Drop Knee – involves heavily weighting the outside of one foot—with the opposing foot stemmed against another hold—in order to generate body tension. This position entails swiveling the corresponding hip towards the wall and torquing the knee downwards
Send – when you finish a climb without falling or touching any other holds
Flash – when you finish a climb on your first try
Redpoint – when you finish a climb on any try other than your first try (only used with roped climbing though)
Beta – the route you take and moves you make to get up a climb (please don’t scream this at people as or after they climb, ask them if they want help first)
Problem – what we call boulders; they’re boulder problems
Route – what we call top ropes, they’re top rope routes
Flag – when you press your leg tight against the wall instead of putting it on a foothold
Smear – pressing your foot against the wall to get traction instead of using a foothold
Heel hook – putting your heel onto or around a rock feature and pulling
Toe hook – sticking your toe in a hold and using that to keep your body tension
Crux – the toughest move or sequence of moves on a climb
Dyno – short for dynamic move, when you jump from one hold to another and both feet come off
Free climbing – climbing with your hands and feet on the rock instead of using gear to get up
Free soloing – climbing long routes without any rope (please don’t do this, save it for Alex Honnold)
Jug – the big holds that are incredible, deep, and easy to hold onto
Crimp – the tiny holds that make your fingers hurt
Pinch – holds that you have to pinch to hold onto
Sloper – usually big, flat holds that tend to rely on skin friction and an open-hand grip
Mantel – a move in which downward pressure is applied with the hands to a ledge, lifting the body high enough to get the feet on the same ledge
Pumped – to be weakened or in pain (usually in the forearms) from a hard move or climb
Slab – a wall that is angled slightly above 90 degrees, usually climbs on these walls are more balance based
Overhang – a wall that is angled below 90 degrees, usually climbs on these walls are more power based
Arête – the outside corner or edge of the wall
Barn door – to swing sideways out from the rock due to being off balance
Crag – a small cliff, or term for a climbing area
Dihedral – two planes of a rock face that intersect, an inside corner in which a climber can use counter pressure on each side to climb it
Edging – Standing on small ledges or crystals with the edges of climbing shoes rather than the soles
Body Position and Directional Loading
General Links
Rock and Ice’s Climbing Technique article
Rapidly Improving Climber Mentality
Adjusting the mental aspect of your climbing is one of the most important steps in improvement. Doing so will allow you to improve other skills quickly and to break through mental barriers.
Temple Climbing Club 